The guide is the length that tells you where to cut. Guides are usually fixed or travelling.
A fixed guide stays in the same place and the hair is then combed to it and then cut. An example is the guide used combing all the hair down and cutting it to a fixed length. The further the section is from the fixed guide the longer the hair is in that section. The closer the section is to the fixed guide the shorter the hair will be in that section. A fixed guide could also be used with vertical sections. An example would be to start in back of the ear and take a vertical section. Work you way forward with more vertical sections and comb them all back to the guide cut in the first section behind the ear. These sections will all be progressively longer from one section to the next going forward.
A travelling guide is one that moves from one section to the next. An example for a travelling guide is the guide used to cut all the vertical sections on the side of the head at the same length. A first vertical section is defined by its parts and then cut to the desired length. The next vertical section is then taken beside the first. A part of the first section is included in the second and this part is the guide to the length of the second section. A third section is then taken in the same way the second was taken and so on.
Cutting with a travelling guide can make all the hair in the sections the same length. It can also be used to make the hair longer or shorter gradually.
Finding the guide
This is a crucial exercise in every section before cutting. Without a guide the work is disorganized.
There are several methods for finding the guide.
The first is to make the new section thin enough that it can be seen through so the guide can be seen easily on the other side of the uncut hair. Many instructors will tell you that if you cannot see the guide then you need to make a new section that is thinner. To help you see the guide, many people suggest that at least half of the new section be made up of the old section which contains the guide. This is another way of saying the new section should be thin. I have heard a suggestion that the old section should be 3/4 of the new section. This would give a thin section of uncut hair in the section.
Being able to see the guide will depend on how well it is lighted. Light shinning through the section will make the guide more visible. Light can be improved by holding the section up to a white wall or holding it up to a mirror that will reflect light.
The second method of finding your guide has you move the uncut hair away from the guide. To do this, grip the new section between the first two fingers. The fingers will be close to the scalp with the cut hair from the previous section and the new hair to be cut both sticking out from the end of the section. Near the end, use the comb to hold the uncut hair away from the cut hair of the guide. To comb this hair away, comb it to the rest of the uncut hair. Don't comb it to the hair that has already been cut. Once you can see the uncut hair, you will be seeing the guide. Move the fingers holding the section toward the end of the section until the holding fingers are where you want them to cut the new hair at the guide.
Both these methods are usually pretty quick once you have tried them. A combination of the two methods is also used to check what you are doing or to show someone what you are doing. You might be able to see the guide through the new section, but you confirm it by combing the uncut hair away until the guide is completely visible.
Problems with finding the guide
Beginning haircutters frequently lose their guide. This becomes a big problem with the cutter feels under pressure to get the job finished under some time constraints. This can lead to cutting the hair to about the length of the guide. This almost never works. It is hard enough to get the length right even when the guide is clearly seen. When it is not seen, it gets very bad quickly.
An example would be a haircut in which one side of the head grows to be longer hair than the other. Seem impossible? It is quite easy to drift in this way.
Controlling errors
In order to control the usual errors and the errors of not seeing the guide, check the work as it progresses. This is done by sectioning the hair opposite to the way it was cut. For example if you are cutting the side of the head in vertical sections, you would check it by making horizontal sections in the area you just cut. This is called cross checking.
It is good to use a system for the checking. Taking 3 or 4 vertical sections and cutting them will give enough horizontal length to check. Start at the top of the vertical sections and take a horizontal section from the first to the last vertical section. See how closely the sections match and smooth out the line. Then take other horizontal sections under the first and continue to check the whole group to the bottom.
After the cross checking, take up the work of the vertical sections again until you have sufficient work completed to cross check again. Each time you restart with vertical sections you have a new guide from the cross checking.
Very experienced cutters have errors on their sections that less than a few millimeters.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Chapter 2 Sectioning
Sectioning is the act of dividing the hair into manageable groups. Sections are defined by part lines and hairlines.
Naming sections
Sections are frequently named after the parts that were used to create them. For example a horizontal section would typically be bounded by two horizontal parts or a horizontal part and a hairline. The same is true for vertical sections, diagonal forward sections, and diagonal back sections. A horse shoe shaped part will isolate a horse shoe shaped section of hair above the part line.
Classifying sections
Sections are classified by their size. In many instructions, typical sections are one inch wide or the width of the comb. Wide sections are wider than an inch. Some instruction tells you to limit your section to 1/2 inch for more precision in your cutting of the section and cutting the haircut. Wide sections are used to create different textures in the section. For example if all the hair in wide section is combed to one side of the section before cutting. Then the side of the section where the cutting is done will have shorter hair than the side that was combed over to the cutting side. There is no limit to what can be done by creating different textures within wide sections. This is generally an advanced part of haircutting and design.
Cutting within a section
In basic haircutting, cutting is usually done at the middle of the section so that the hair is near the same length throughout the section.
In general
In general it is hard to make a section too small when first learning. Small sections are easy to handle and easy to cut. It is quite easy to make a section too large. This makes it more difficult to tell where the section is to be cut.
Beginning hair cutters tend to be in a hurry. They tend to make sections too large with the idea of completing the work more quickly. This is frequently because they don't understand all the purposes of the section and how to manipulate the different qualities of the section. As a beginner's rule take 1/2 inch sections. It is better to err on the side of having small sections instead of large sections.
Beginners also tend to overlook the importance of the parts defining the section. Clean parts are ones in which the part runs in a straight line and where the scalp is clearly seen at the bottom of the part. Clean parts are preferred for doing precision cutting. Having jagged, poorly defined parts for a section means the section overflows into other sections and other sections invade the current section.
Working with sections
Generally sections have to be picked up to work with them. To cut them with shears or a razor, fingers generally hold the section at the desired length so the section can be cut to that length. For work with clippers, sections can be held with fingers, a comb, or the clipper blade.
There is an exception to this. When sections are combed down they are sometimes cut against the skin of the neck or head. A side of the hand or the side of several fingers is used to hold the hair against the skin.
Forming sections
To begin making sections, the head is typically divided into four large sections. The first part goes from the middle of the front hairline to the middle of the back hairline at the nape. This will divide the hair into two sections on the right and left side of the head. Then a second part is made in each of these sections from the top of the head (the apex) to the top of the ears. This will result in four sections.
Each of the four sections will later be divided. In this chapter we will divide the four sections up into smaller sections called subsections. These will be picked up to see how they should be held for control and cutting.
Holding a section in the fingers
Sections are usually held in the first two fingers of the hand that is not doing the cutting. If you are right handed and are planning to cut with shears in your right hand, the section would be held between the index and second fingers of the left hand.
The hair is held with the ends near the pads of the fingers or with the ends sticking out at the back of the fingers. There are situations when it is more convenient to use one of these method over the other. There are also situations when one method is chosen because it gives more control of the section and allows you to be sure you are cutting it just the way you intended without distorting its position. One method may also make it easier to find the guide to the length of the cut. Choosing one method of holding the section may also give you a more comfortable way to position your holding hand, wrist, and arm to avoid stress. At the same time it may let you position the hand, wrist, and arm of the cutting hand to protect them from stress.
The summary of this is that the way sections are held is determined by how well it will facilitate your work. All the above factors will go into your decision.
Positioning the arm, wrist, hand and fingers to hold the section and to cut the section
To avoid stress in the arm, wrist, hand and fingers keep them all in a relatively straight line. Stay relaxed. The fingers should be parallel to the parts of the sections. Once the fingers are in line, align the wrist, and forearm to be on the same line.
The arm, wrist, hand and fingers of the cutting hand should also be relatively straight and parallel to the parts of the section.
Examples of holding the hair
a. Divide the hair into four sections. Stand behind the client and make a horizontal section 1 inch up from the hair line in one of the back sections. Comb the hair straight down. With the holding hand facing to the floor with the palm down, slide the middle finger under the combed down hair and put the index finger over the hair. The fingers are facing down. Slide the fingers down the section to the desired length. The palm and fingers are down. The fingers are parallel to the part making the horizontal section. The fingers, hand, wrist and forearm are all in a straight line.
b. On the right side of the head make a vertical part from the top of the side to the side hairline below. Comb the hair behind this part to the back of the head so it is out of the way and the part is clear. Make another part about 1/2 inch in front of the first vertical part. Comb the hair in front of this part to the front of the head so the part is clean.
You now have a vertical section between these two parts. This part can be picked up with the fingers pointing down or with the fingers pointing up.
i. Fingers pointing down
From behind the client place your index finger on the first part line ( the one nearer the back of the head). The wrist of the holding hand is above the section. Comb the hair in the section over the index finger and close the middle finger on the section. You are now holding the section with your fingers pointing down. Slide your fingers toward the end of the hair until you reach the length you want the section to be after cutting. You would now cut this section by cutting up the back of the fingers. This is some times called over hand cutting.
ii. Fingers pointing up
Stand on the right side of the client. With the palm of your hand facing you. Put your middle finger on the front part of the section. Comb the hair in the section over the middle finger. Close the index finger over the section. The fingers are pointing up and the palm of the holding hand is facing you. Fingers, palm, wrist and forearm should be in a line to the ceiling. This section would be cut with the palm of the cutting hand facing the palm of the holding hand. This is called palm to palm cutting. ( Whether you use the middle finger and comb the hair forward or the index finger and comb the hair back in getting a grip on the section, makes no difference. Try both ways to see your preference.)
c. The over hand cutting technique is usually used for cutting sections on top of the head. The section is held in the fingers with the palm facing the scalp. The section would be cut along the top of the fingers at the desired length.
d. The palm to palm method is used with diagonal sections on the side and back of the head. Instead of having the fingers pointing straight up, align the fingers so they are parallel to the parts of the diagonal section. The fingers can be on a slant up or a slant down depending on the slant of the section. For example if you are using diagonal forward sections in the back, on the left side the fingers would point up to the middle part in the back. On the right side the fingers would point down from the middle part to follow the part slant.
Correcting a section
a. Correct the parts
Once you have the section in your grip, you may be able to correct problems with it. Hold the section in the fingers the way you expect it to be when it is being cut. Then look at both sides or the top and bottom to see if is well defined with clean parts. If you see a messy part, try to improve it by loosening your grip on the section and pulling one end of the comb through the messy part. This may clean it up enough to make it useable.
b. Correct up, down, front, and back
Sections have to be held so they leave the scalp in the right direction. They cannot be raised or lowered without distorting their lenghts. They also must not be too far forward or too far back.
For these directions, there may be a part that will let you know if you are raising it or lowering it. For an uncomplicated section, check to see the hair is leaving the scalp straight out.
Naming sections
Sections are frequently named after the parts that were used to create them. For example a horizontal section would typically be bounded by two horizontal parts or a horizontal part and a hairline. The same is true for vertical sections, diagonal forward sections, and diagonal back sections. A horse shoe shaped part will isolate a horse shoe shaped section of hair above the part line.
Classifying sections
Sections are classified by their size. In many instructions, typical sections are one inch wide or the width of the comb. Wide sections are wider than an inch. Some instruction tells you to limit your section to 1/2 inch for more precision in your cutting of the section and cutting the haircut. Wide sections are used to create different textures in the section. For example if all the hair in wide section is combed to one side of the section before cutting. Then the side of the section where the cutting is done will have shorter hair than the side that was combed over to the cutting side. There is no limit to what can be done by creating different textures within wide sections. This is generally an advanced part of haircutting and design.
Cutting within a section
In basic haircutting, cutting is usually done at the middle of the section so that the hair is near the same length throughout the section.
In general
In general it is hard to make a section too small when first learning. Small sections are easy to handle and easy to cut. It is quite easy to make a section too large. This makes it more difficult to tell where the section is to be cut.
Beginning hair cutters tend to be in a hurry. They tend to make sections too large with the idea of completing the work more quickly. This is frequently because they don't understand all the purposes of the section and how to manipulate the different qualities of the section. As a beginner's rule take 1/2 inch sections. It is better to err on the side of having small sections instead of large sections.
Beginners also tend to overlook the importance of the parts defining the section. Clean parts are ones in which the part runs in a straight line and where the scalp is clearly seen at the bottom of the part. Clean parts are preferred for doing precision cutting. Having jagged, poorly defined parts for a section means the section overflows into other sections and other sections invade the current section.
Working with sections
Generally sections have to be picked up to work with them. To cut them with shears or a razor, fingers generally hold the section at the desired length so the section can be cut to that length. For work with clippers, sections can be held with fingers, a comb, or the clipper blade.
There is an exception to this. When sections are combed down they are sometimes cut against the skin of the neck or head. A side of the hand or the side of several fingers is used to hold the hair against the skin.
Forming sections
To begin making sections, the head is typically divided into four large sections. The first part goes from the middle of the front hairline to the middle of the back hairline at the nape. This will divide the hair into two sections on the right and left side of the head. Then a second part is made in each of these sections from the top of the head (the apex) to the top of the ears. This will result in four sections.
Each of the four sections will later be divided. In this chapter we will divide the four sections up into smaller sections called subsections. These will be picked up to see how they should be held for control and cutting.
Holding a section in the fingers
Sections are usually held in the first two fingers of the hand that is not doing the cutting. If you are right handed and are planning to cut with shears in your right hand, the section would be held between the index and second fingers of the left hand.
The hair is held with the ends near the pads of the fingers or with the ends sticking out at the back of the fingers. There are situations when it is more convenient to use one of these method over the other. There are also situations when one method is chosen because it gives more control of the section and allows you to be sure you are cutting it just the way you intended without distorting its position. One method may also make it easier to find the guide to the length of the cut. Choosing one method of holding the section may also give you a more comfortable way to position your holding hand, wrist, and arm to avoid stress. At the same time it may let you position the hand, wrist, and arm of the cutting hand to protect them from stress.
The summary of this is that the way sections are held is determined by how well it will facilitate your work. All the above factors will go into your decision.
Positioning the arm, wrist, hand and fingers to hold the section and to cut the section
To avoid stress in the arm, wrist, hand and fingers keep them all in a relatively straight line. Stay relaxed. The fingers should be parallel to the parts of the sections. Once the fingers are in line, align the wrist, and forearm to be on the same line.
The arm, wrist, hand and fingers of the cutting hand should also be relatively straight and parallel to the parts of the section.
Examples of holding the hair
a. Divide the hair into four sections. Stand behind the client and make a horizontal section 1 inch up from the hair line in one of the back sections. Comb the hair straight down. With the holding hand facing to the floor with the palm down, slide the middle finger under the combed down hair and put the index finger over the hair. The fingers are facing down. Slide the fingers down the section to the desired length. The palm and fingers are down. The fingers are parallel to the part making the horizontal section. The fingers, hand, wrist and forearm are all in a straight line.
b. On the right side of the head make a vertical part from the top of the side to the side hairline below. Comb the hair behind this part to the back of the head so it is out of the way and the part is clear. Make another part about 1/2 inch in front of the first vertical part. Comb the hair in front of this part to the front of the head so the part is clean.
You now have a vertical section between these two parts. This part can be picked up with the fingers pointing down or with the fingers pointing up.
i. Fingers pointing down
From behind the client place your index finger on the first part line ( the one nearer the back of the head). The wrist of the holding hand is above the section. Comb the hair in the section over the index finger and close the middle finger on the section. You are now holding the section with your fingers pointing down. Slide your fingers toward the end of the hair until you reach the length you want the section to be after cutting. You would now cut this section by cutting up the back of the fingers. This is some times called over hand cutting.
ii. Fingers pointing up
Stand on the right side of the client. With the palm of your hand facing you. Put your middle finger on the front part of the section. Comb the hair in the section over the middle finger. Close the index finger over the section. The fingers are pointing up and the palm of the holding hand is facing you. Fingers, palm, wrist and forearm should be in a line to the ceiling. This section would be cut with the palm of the cutting hand facing the palm of the holding hand. This is called palm to palm cutting. ( Whether you use the middle finger and comb the hair forward or the index finger and comb the hair back in getting a grip on the section, makes no difference. Try both ways to see your preference.)
c. The over hand cutting technique is usually used for cutting sections on top of the head. The section is held in the fingers with the palm facing the scalp. The section would be cut along the top of the fingers at the desired length.
d. The palm to palm method is used with diagonal sections on the side and back of the head. Instead of having the fingers pointing straight up, align the fingers so they are parallel to the parts of the diagonal section. The fingers can be on a slant up or a slant down depending on the slant of the section. For example if you are using diagonal forward sections in the back, on the left side the fingers would point up to the middle part in the back. On the right side the fingers would point down from the middle part to follow the part slant.
Correcting a section
a. Correct the parts
Once you have the section in your grip, you may be able to correct problems with it. Hold the section in the fingers the way you expect it to be when it is being cut. Then look at both sides or the top and bottom to see if is well defined with clean parts. If you see a messy part, try to improve it by loosening your grip on the section and pulling one end of the comb through the messy part. This may clean it up enough to make it useable.
b. Correct up, down, front, and back
Sections have to be held so they leave the scalp in the right direction. They cannot be raised or lowered without distorting their lenghts. They also must not be too far forward or too far back.
For these directions, there may be a part that will let you know if you are raising it or lowering it. For an uncomplicated section, check to see the hair is leaving the scalp straight out.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Chapter 1 Parting
The only tool needed for this chapter is a comb. If you are looking for a comb to buy, get a seven inch comb with fine teeth on one end and wide teeth on the other. It is generally one inch wide. This is sometimes called a cutting comb or a styling comb. They are cheap and these will be used a lot in cutting hair.
Parting is necessary for accuracy in haircutting. It is often overlooked as a necessary skill at the beginning of haircutting. It is assumed that everyone already knows how to part the hair. Most people do have some experience making a part on the top of their head, but they have almost no experience making parts on the side of the head or making parts that are angled across the head.
Parts are used to let you separate a specific section of hair from all the rest. There will be a part on each side of the section. Having a specific section of hair to work gives you control over what happens to that part of your hair design.
Naming parts
Parts are named by several conventions. One is to call parts going up and down from the floor to the ceiling vertical parts. This can be useful for parts on the side or back of the head that go up and down. Another convention is to call parts running parallel to the floor horizontal parts.
Some confusion can happen in a long part. For example a part from the middle of the front hairline to the middle of the back of the neck. This starts as a horizontal part on top of the head and becomes vertical in the back of the head. It can be clearer to describe a part by the parts of the head it connects. For example, a part on the top of the head could be called a side to side part from ear to ear.
Another major group of parts is the diagonal parts. These are frequently subdivided into diagonal forward and diagonal back parts. Parts are diagonal if they are not horizontal or vertical. Diagonal forward parts are parts where the lower end of the part is closer to the front of the head than the top of the part. For example a part going from the occipital bone ( the bump on the back of the head) to hairline behind the ear lobe is diagonal forward. The lower end is closer to the front of the head than the higher end at the occipital bone.
Diagonal back parts are parts where the lower end of the part is closer to the back of the head than the upper end of the part. An example of a diagonal back part is a part starting at the front hairline at the height of the eyebrow and ending behind the ear. The lower end which is behind the ear is closer to the back of the head than the top of the part which is at the front hairline.
A special kind of part is the horse shoe shaped part. As the name implies it is shaped like a horse shoe. This kind of part goes around the head from one side to the other. It generally is placed near the top of the head connecting the two sides of the head. The arms of the horse shoe shaped part will start in the front hairline on each side of the head. The connection of the two arms of the horse shoe shaped part is in the back of the head.
The horse shoe shaped part can have horizontal or diagonal arms.
Making a part
The first thing in making a part is to comb the hair in the direction the part will go. If the part is to run from the front hairline to the back top of the head, comb the hair back from the forehead toward the back of the head. If the part is to be made up and down on the side of the head, the hair is all combed straight down on the side. The wide teeth of the comb are usually used for this kind of combing.
The second thing to do is to look at where you want the part to start and where you want the part to stop. Doing this will let you know where you need to stand to make the part. Parts are frequently made by drawing the comb to you. Rarely will you make a part pushing the comb away from you. The other thing to do is to see if the part will be visible in the mirror. If it will be, use the mirror to check your placement
Going back to the example of the part from the front hairline to the back of the head, you will notice the part will be visible in the mirror if the client faces the mirror. If you face the client to the mirror you will be standing behind the client facing mirror and facing the back of the client's head.
The third step is to insert an end of the comb into the hair at the starting point. Having looked in the mirror you will be able to see if the comb is on target for the beginning point.
The fourth step is to draw the comb end to the end point of the part.
There are several techniques to help with this.
The first is to take the hand not holding the comb and place the index finger on the end of the comb making the part line. This technique helps to stabilize the comb and to keep it on course. It also allows index finger to separate the hair away from the part on one side as the comb makes the part line.
The second technique is to move the hand not holding the comb to where the part is to end. Now place the index finger on the spot where you want the part to end. Some find that their brain automatically calculates how to bring the end of the comb to your index finger.
Either of these techniques will give you a part line.
Evaluate the part line
When you have the part line the next step is to see if you like it. Does it go where it is supposed to? Is it a clean line that lets you see the scalp ? If you don't like do it over.
For shorter parts, the same technique is used, but the shorter distances make them easier to complete.
As you cut more hair you will make so many parts they will become automatic.
Exercise
Divide the head into 4 sections by making a long part from the middle of the front hairline to middle of the hairline at the back of the neck. Follow this by a part from one ear to the other ear . Now make parts in each of the four sections. Make all horizontal parts in a section and then comb them out and make all vertical sections. Then comb these out and try making diagonal forward and diagonal back parts. Finally make horse shoe shaped parts around the top of the head. Try ones that are high up the sides right next to the top and ones that are halfway between the top and the top of the ears.
Parting is necessary for accuracy in haircutting. It is often overlooked as a necessary skill at the beginning of haircutting. It is assumed that everyone already knows how to part the hair. Most people do have some experience making a part on the top of their head, but they have almost no experience making parts on the side of the head or making parts that are angled across the head.
Parts are used to let you separate a specific section of hair from all the rest. There will be a part on each side of the section. Having a specific section of hair to work gives you control over what happens to that part of your hair design.
Naming parts
Parts are named by several conventions. One is to call parts going up and down from the floor to the ceiling vertical parts. This can be useful for parts on the side or back of the head that go up and down. Another convention is to call parts running parallel to the floor horizontal parts.
Some confusion can happen in a long part. For example a part from the middle of the front hairline to the middle of the back of the neck. This starts as a horizontal part on top of the head and becomes vertical in the back of the head. It can be clearer to describe a part by the parts of the head it connects. For example, a part on the top of the head could be called a side to side part from ear to ear.
Another major group of parts is the diagonal parts. These are frequently subdivided into diagonal forward and diagonal back parts. Parts are diagonal if they are not horizontal or vertical. Diagonal forward parts are parts where the lower end of the part is closer to the front of the head than the top of the part. For example a part going from the occipital bone ( the bump on the back of the head) to hairline behind the ear lobe is diagonal forward. The lower end is closer to the front of the head than the higher end at the occipital bone.
Diagonal back parts are parts where the lower end of the part is closer to the back of the head than the upper end of the part. An example of a diagonal back part is a part starting at the front hairline at the height of the eyebrow and ending behind the ear. The lower end which is behind the ear is closer to the back of the head than the top of the part which is at the front hairline.
A special kind of part is the horse shoe shaped part. As the name implies it is shaped like a horse shoe. This kind of part goes around the head from one side to the other. It generally is placed near the top of the head connecting the two sides of the head. The arms of the horse shoe shaped part will start in the front hairline on each side of the head. The connection of the two arms of the horse shoe shaped part is in the back of the head.
The horse shoe shaped part can have horizontal or diagonal arms.
Making a part
The first thing in making a part is to comb the hair in the direction the part will go. If the part is to run from the front hairline to the back top of the head, comb the hair back from the forehead toward the back of the head. If the part is to be made up and down on the side of the head, the hair is all combed straight down on the side. The wide teeth of the comb are usually used for this kind of combing.
The second thing to do is to look at where you want the part to start and where you want the part to stop. Doing this will let you know where you need to stand to make the part. Parts are frequently made by drawing the comb to you. Rarely will you make a part pushing the comb away from you. The other thing to do is to see if the part will be visible in the mirror. If it will be, use the mirror to check your placement
Going back to the example of the part from the front hairline to the back of the head, you will notice the part will be visible in the mirror if the client faces the mirror. If you face the client to the mirror you will be standing behind the client facing mirror and facing the back of the client's head.
The third step is to insert an end of the comb into the hair at the starting point. Having looked in the mirror you will be able to see if the comb is on target for the beginning point.
The fourth step is to draw the comb end to the end point of the part.
There are several techniques to help with this.
The first is to take the hand not holding the comb and place the index finger on the end of the comb making the part line. This technique helps to stabilize the comb and to keep it on course. It also allows index finger to separate the hair away from the part on one side as the comb makes the part line.
The second technique is to move the hand not holding the comb to where the part is to end. Now place the index finger on the spot where you want the part to end. Some find that their brain automatically calculates how to bring the end of the comb to your index finger.
Either of these techniques will give you a part line.
Evaluate the part line
When you have the part line the next step is to see if you like it. Does it go where it is supposed to? Is it a clean line that lets you see the scalp ? If you don't like do it over.
For shorter parts, the same technique is used, but the shorter distances make them easier to complete.
As you cut more hair you will make so many parts they will become automatic.
Exercise
Divide the head into 4 sections by making a long part from the middle of the front hairline to middle of the hairline at the back of the neck. Follow this by a part from one ear to the other ear . Now make parts in each of the four sections. Make all horizontal parts in a section and then comb them out and make all vertical sections. Then comb these out and try making diagonal forward and diagonal back parts. Finally make horse shoe shaped parts around the top of the head. Try ones that are high up the sides right next to the top and ones that are halfway between the top and the top of the ears.
Introduction
This book will describe the techniques of haircutting. It will be a progressive description of techniques starting with the most basic and working up up to the techniques in more complicated designs.
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