Chapter 2 Sectioning

Sectioning is the act of dividing the hair into manageable groups. Sections are defined by part lines and hairlines.



Naming sections



Sections are frequently named after the parts that were used to create them. For example a horizontal section would typically be bounded by two horizontal parts or a horizontal part and a hairline. The same is true for vertical sections, diagonal forward sections, and diagonal back sections. A horse shoe shaped part will isolate a horse shoe shaped section of hair above the part line.



Classifying sections
Sections are classified by their size. In many instructions, typical sections are one inch wide or the width of the comb. Wide sections are wider than an inch. Some instruction tells you to limit your section to 1/2 inch for more precision in your cutting of the section and cutting the haircut. Wide sections are used to create different textures in the section. For example if all the hair in wide section is combed to one side of the section before cutting. Then the side of the section where the cutting is done will have shorter hair than the side that was combed over to the cutting side. There is no limit to what can be done by creating different textures within wide sections. This is generally an advanced part of haircutting and design.



Cutting within a section
In basic haircutting, cutting is usually done at the middle of the section so that the hair is near the same length throughout the section.






In general
In general it is hard to make a section too small when first learning. Small sections are easy to handle and easy to cut. It is quite easy to make a section too large. This makes it more difficult to tell where the section is to be cut.



Beginning hair cutters tend to be in a hurry. They tend to make sections too large with the idea of completing the work more quickly. This is frequently because they don't understand all the purposes of the section and how to manipulate the different qualities of the section. As a beginner's rule take 1/2 inch sections. It is better to err on the side of having small sections instead of large sections.

Beginners also tend to overlook the importance of the parts defining the section. Clean parts are ones in which the part runs in a straight line and where the scalp is clearly seen at the bottom of the part. Clean parts are preferred for doing precision cutting. Having jagged, poorly defined parts for a section means the section overflows into other sections and other sections invade the current section.


Working with sections

Generally sections have to be picked up to work with them. To cut them with shears or a razor, fingers generally hold the section at the desired length so the section can be cut to that length. For work with clippers, sections can be held with fingers, a comb, or the clipper blade.
There is an exception to this. When sections are combed down they are sometimes cut against the skin of the neck or head. A side of the hand or the side of several fingers is used to hold the hair against the skin.


Forming sections

To begin making sections, the head is typically divided into four large sections. The first part goes from the middle of the front hairline to the middle of the back hairline at the nape. This will divide the hair into two sections on the right and left side of the head. Then a second part is made in each of these sections from the top of the head (the apex) to the top of the ears. This will result in four sections.


Each of the four sections will later be divided. In this chapter we will divide the four sections up into smaller sections called subsections. These will be picked up to see how they should be held for control and cutting.



Holding a section in the fingers

Sections are usually held in the first two fingers of the hand that is not doing the cutting. If you are right handed and are planning to cut with shears in your right hand, the section would be held between the index and second fingers of the left hand.



The hair is held with the ends near the pads of the fingers or with the ends sticking out at the back of the fingers. There are situations when it is more convenient to use one of these method over the other. There are also situations when one method is chosen because it gives more control of the section and allows you to be sure you are cutting it just the way you intended without distorting its position. One method may also make it easier to find the guide to the length of the cut. Choosing one method of holding the section may also give you a more comfortable way to position your holding hand, wrist, and arm to avoid stress. At the same time it may let you position the hand, wrist, and arm of the cutting hand to protect them from stress.
The summary of this is that the way sections are held is determined by how well it will facilitate your work. All the above factors will go into your decision.




Positioning the arm, wrist, hand and fingers to hold the section and to cut the section



To avoid stress in the arm, wrist, hand and fingers keep them all in a relatively straight line. Stay relaxed. The fingers should be parallel to the parts of the sections. Once the fingers are in line, align the wrist, and forearm to be on the same line.



The arm, wrist, hand and fingers of the cutting hand should also be relatively straight and parallel to the parts of the section.



Examples of holding the hair
a. Divide the hair into four sections. Stand behind the client and make a horizontal section 1 inch up from the hair line in one of the back sections. Comb the hair straight down. With the holding hand facing to the floor with the palm down, slide the middle finger under the combed down hair and put the index finger over the hair. The fingers are facing down. Slide the fingers down the section to the desired length. The palm and fingers are down. The fingers are parallel to the part making the horizontal section. The fingers, hand, wrist and forearm are all in a straight line.

b. On the right side of the head make a vertical part from the top of the side to the side hairline below. Comb the hair behind this part to the back of the head so it is out of the way and the part is clear. Make another part about 1/2 inch in front of the first vertical part. Comb the hair in front of this part to the front of the head so the part is clean.
You now have a vertical section between these two parts. This part can be picked up with the fingers pointing down or with the fingers pointing up.
i. Fingers pointing down
From behind the client place your index finger on the first part line ( the one nearer the back of the head). The wrist of the holding hand is above the section. Comb the hair in the section over the index finger and close the middle finger on the section. You are now holding the section with your fingers pointing down. Slide your fingers toward the end of the hair until you reach the length you want the section to be after cutting. You would now cut this section by cutting up the back of the fingers. This is some times called over hand cutting.
ii. Fingers pointing up
Stand on the right side of the client. With the palm of your hand facing you. Put your middle finger on the front part of the section. Comb the hair in the section over the middle finger. Close the index finger over the section. The fingers are pointing up and the palm of the holding hand is facing you. Fingers, palm, wrist and forearm should be in a line to the ceiling. This section would be cut with the palm of the cutting hand facing the palm of the holding hand. This is called palm to palm cutting. ( Whether you use the middle finger and comb the hair forward or the index finger and comb the hair back in getting a grip on the section, makes no difference. Try both ways to see your preference.)

c. The over hand cutting technique is usually used for cutting sections on top of the head. The section is held in the fingers with the palm facing the scalp. The section would be cut along the top of the fingers at the desired length.
d. The palm to palm method is used with diagonal sections on the side and back of the head. Instead of having the fingers pointing straight up, align the fingers so they are parallel to the parts of the diagonal section. The fingers can be on a slant up or a slant down depending on the slant of the section. For example if you are using diagonal forward sections in the back, on the left side the fingers would point up to the middle part in the back. On the right side the fingers would point down from the middle part to follow the part slant.

Correcting a section
a. Correct the parts
Once you have the section in your grip, you may be able to correct problems with it. Hold the section in the fingers the way you expect it to be when it is being cut. Then look at both sides or the top and bottom to see if is well defined with clean parts. If you see a messy part, try to improve it by loosening your grip on the section and pulling one end of the comb through the messy part. This may clean it up enough to make it useable.
b. Correct up, down, front, and back
Sections have to be held so they leave the scalp in the right direction. They cannot be raised or lowered without distorting their lenghts. They also must not be too far forward or too far back.
For these directions, there may be a part that will let you know if you are raising it or lowering it. For an uncomplicated section, check to see the hair is leaving the scalp straight out.